Uncorking Wines From Argentina

"Hotter" than Europe, Argentina is igniting the interest of wine aficionados everywhere. This Latin country is currently the fourth largest producing country in the world. Surprised? Although it's stayed below the radar until recently, Argentina has 25,698 vineyards and over one half million acres under vine, sending grapes to vats in more than 900 wineries. With a long Spanish and Italian heritage, it's natural that Argentineans have a deep passion for food and wine. Argentina, in fact, is one of the top wine consumption countries in the world, with the average person drinking 40 liters a year each-and that's down from 90 liters a person just a few years ago. Seems the younger generation now prefers Coca-Cola!

Origins

Of the various stories describing the origins of viniculture in Argentina, two prevail. One says the first vine plantings were carried over the Andes by immigrants from neighboring Chile; the second envisions pioneer vintners bringing root vines from Peru, coming to Argentina through Bolivia via the Humahuaca Pass. There is evidence that a vintner from Santiago, Chile established a sizable vineyard in the region of San Juan, Argentina in the late 1550s. History also confirms that Spanish monks and other early settlers from Spain planted old world vine roots in the dry, rocky soil along the foothills of the Andes Mountains, perhaps as early as 1500. Argentina has been producing wine for more than five centuries.

Terroir

Argentina is blessed with near perfect conditions for cultivating premier vineyards. The soil-always considered the "soul" of wine-- is dry, rocky and lacking in richness. A too rich soil stimulates vine growth at the expense of color and flavor in the grape, so the thin soil of Argentina ensures dense, deeply colored clusters. When, or if, water is needed to offset the arid, dessert-like soil, melting snow trickling down from the mountain heights provides a steady flow of irrigation. At the same time, the rocky composition of the soil allows the roots of the vines to grow deep without getting "wet." Moreover, as the warm sunny days dissolve into cool, crisp nights, the wide swing in temperatures slows the ripening of the grapes. This gradual ripening is ideal, as grapes that "hang on the vine" longer tend to produce a more excellent quality vintage. What vintner could ask for more?

Most of Argentina's vineyards are cultivated in the foothills of the Andes at altitudes ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 feet above sea level. As the altitude increases, the average daily temperature decreases at the rate of 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit for each 328 feet of elevation. Thus, a vintner can literally "climb the Andes" to find the ideal temperature for each specific variety of grape.

Varieties of Grapes

Grapes from old world vines were transported to Argentina mainly from Spain and Italy. Almost all the old world varieties are here-Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay and other popular wine grapes.

The two grape varieties with a distinct Spanish heritage include Torrontés and Tempranillo.

Torrontés is a white wine grape producing terrifically fragrant, rich fruity wines that deliver crisp acidity and substantial body. As developed in Argentina, this grape has evolved into a pleasing wine with flavors tones that range from fresh floral-and-citrus qualities to more exotic notes.

Tempranillo is the main vine of the great Spanish reds, such as Rioja. Tradition says this grape was brought to Spain by pilgrims during the crusades. When Spaniards transplanted this grape to Argentina it thrived, producing colorful wines lush with the taste of berries.

Early Italian settlers contributed many fine grapes, including Barbera, a "food-friendly" and "wallet-friendly" red, originally transported to Argentina from Italy's Piedmont region.

The signature grape of Argentina and the source of Argentina's growing status as a producer of world-class red wines is the Malbec. Transported from France where its temperamental qualities often relegated it to status as a "blending" grape used with other varieties, this grape has asserted its distinct characteristics in the welcoming climate of Argentina. Here it ripens more reliably than in France, yielding flavors that wine experts describe as "reminiscent of blueberries, plums, mocha and chocolate." Without question, Argentinean Malbecs now rank among the finest in the world, producing powerful, smooth deeply-fruited wines, rich with spice and distinct character. This grape is grown in all the winemaking regions of Argentina with the best wines coming from the province of Mendoza.

Mendoza, one of Argentina's best grape producing regions, is home to three quarters of the vineyards in the country. Vines here are uniquely positioned, enjoying a subtle elevation along the mountain base. Thirsty roots can sip on the slow flow of water from the snow thaw on the Andean peaks, while leaves and grape clusters bask in the abundant sunshine. Under such idyllic growing conditions, the Malbec has reached new heights in Mendoza, producing wines to please the palate of any red wine enthusiast.

Labels to look for:

Both the Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiast have awarded ratings of 90 or higher to dozens of wines from Argentina. Our personal favorites are from the vineyards of Catena-including Catena Chardonnay. The lush full taste of Catena can come with a "full" price tag, however. For good taste plus good value, look for Trumpeter, Norton, Trapeche and Alta Vista labels--each produces good wines for around $6.00 to slightly over $10 a bottle.

And note, that while the price of wines from France, Italy and Spain is rising, wines from Latin America are very well priced. In addition, Argentinean regulations require that a wine labeled with a varietal name, must contain at least 90 percent of that grape.

Try:

J. & F. Lurton Pinot Gris Uco Valley 2004- This wine scored 86 points from Wine Spectator with the accolade “nice and plump, with citrus peel, butter, flora and peach flavors and a round clean finish.” Good buy at@ $7

Domino de Plaza Torrontés Cafayate Crios de Susana Balbo 2004 – Rated 85 by Wine Spectator and cited as a “perfect aperitif.” Around $15

Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Mendoza 2003. An 88 point score from Wine Spectator and rated a value at just $10 a bottle.

Bodega Norton Malbec Mendoza 2003 – Harvested from vintage vines that date back to the early 1800s, this wine has “lively raspberry flavors” and carries an 85 rating from Wine Spectator. Value priced at $10